Finger waves began as a ’20s technique of shaping wet, gelled hair into flat, rippling S-curves with fingers, a comb and clips. They never fully went away, and today they appear in far more forms than the original sleek bob. This gallery includes the classic look on a grey bob and on short natural hair, but also playful updates: pinched waves in neon pink and blonde, a messy cherry-coloured version with no parting, a mohawk that mixes pin curls and waves, and zig-zag waves on a long sew-in.
Length changes the method. On short and pixie cuts, gel and a fine-toothed comb produce the crisp, molded ridges, and even one or two statement waves near the forehead make an impact. On longer, thicker hair, waves are usually created dry with a curling iron or flat iron and are softer and bigger. Updos such as a beehive covered in waves, an oversized chignon and a victory-roll prom style are best left to a stylist.
Finger waves suit special occasions, themed parties and editorial looks, but short-haired wearers can also keep them for several days with a satin wrap at night.
1. Formal Finger Wave Updo
Finger waves are not just for gelled bobs. Here, loose sculpted waves are draped over a backcombed beehive and pinned piece by piece. It takes time, patience and skill, so it is best recreated with a stylist for a wedding, gala or other special occasion.
Inspiration: @makefinityhairandmakeup
2. Natural Hair Finger Wave Pixie
Short on time? One or two dramatic waves at the front of a natural-hair pixie give the cut a completely new look and can turn a casual style into something formal. Gel and a fine-toothed comb are all you need to shape them.
Inspiration: @ohdiane_hair
3. Long Luscious Retro Waves
These long waves update the classic technique using a curling iron on dry hair. Clamp a section, rotate the iron halfway towards the scalp while pulling the free ends one way, then repeat just below turning away from the head. A larger barrel makes bigger S-waves.
Inspiration: @mellose_se
4. Finger Waves with Bangs
A single large wave across the bangs is an easy way to try the trend on a bob. Create it with a curling iron, or roller-set the section, brush it out and push it into an S-shape, clipping each curve. Set with the dryer and hairspray.
Inspiration: @emchenhair
5. Modern Finger Wave Mohawk
A mohawk can be far more versatile than you might think. Pin curls on top merge into sculpted waves further back, and bold colour adds to the mix of textures. The result is showy and fun yet still polished.
Inspiration: @kiastylez
6. Cherry-Colored Finger Wave Hair
Instead of neat, orderly rows, these cherry-coloured waves are slightly messy, alternating in size and direction to give short hair volume and texture. Leaving out the parting gives the classic technique a distinctly modern feel.
Inspiration: @artistry4gg
7. Pinched Neon Pink Waves
Perfectly molded pinched waves in neon pink and bleached blonde turn a vintage style young and fun. Work from a side part with plenty of gel: clip a section, push the hair towards the clip with a comb to raise a ridge, pinch it, then continue down the head.
Inspiration: @salonchristol
8. Finger Waves on Black Hair
Sculpted finger waves on the sides contrast beautifully with full curls on top of a black pixie, showing the technique works on short curly hair as well as long lengths. Set the top in curlers and dry everything under a hood dryer.
Inspiration: @nikki_h_stylist
9. Over-Sized Formal Updo
This oversized wavy chignon finished with a flower is a true showpiece for formal occasions. It is not something to attempt alone at the bathroom mirror; a skilled stylist is needed to shape and secure the waves and volume.
Inspiration: @mustafaavci
10. Super Short Waves
Very short hair can still wear finger waves. Rub gel into a section above the forehead, press it flat along the hairline with a comb, curve it onto the forehead and back again, then repeat with the next lock. Linked together, they read as one continuous wave.
Inspiration: @niksbeautystudio
11. Inspiring Finger Waves Bob
Waves on a bob echo the original ’20s look and suit this grey shade beautifully. Surprisingly, a wide flat iron can do the job. On longer, thicker hair, dry push waves created with a straightener or curling iron are the practical alternative to a wet set.
Inspiration: @minthairstudio
12. Cute Finger Wave Prom Hairstyle
Combining ’20s finger waves with ’40s victory rolls creates a striking two-decade prom or evening look. It calls for a stylist, who will usually roller-set the front, brush through the set curls and shape them into waves and rolls.
Inspiration: @annette_updo_artist
13. Long Zig-Zag Sew In
Finger waves are usually flat, but these loose zig-zag waves have lots of volume and life. The look is actually a sew-in, which makes it a great option for anyone who regularly wears wigs or weaves and wants a striking change without extra styling.
Inspiration: @the_rose_affect
Sculpting wet-set finger waves on short hair
- Start with damp, freshly washed hair and apply a generous amount of setting gel or waving lotion all over.
- Comb everything flat from a side part, then push the hair forward with the comb while pressing a finger above it to form the first ridge.
- Pin the ridge with a duckbill clip, then comb the next section in the opposite direction to create the S-curve, clipping each new ridge as you go.
- Let the hair dry fully under a hooded dryer or with a diffuser on low before removing the clips; touching it damp will flatten the pattern.
Dry waves for longer hair
For length that is too heavy for a wet set, use a curling iron or flat iron to create alternating half-turns down each section, one towards the head and one away, then brush gently and pin the dips with clips while the hair cools. A light shine spray and a flexible hairspray finish the look without the stiffness of gel.